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1200A Secondary Cap Screw
I'm not sure if you've tried this yet, but if the bolt broke because of tension and is not bottomed out, you might try a couple of easy tricks. If you know which way the bolt needs to turn to come out, sometimes a pin punch or nail set can be used to dimple what's left of the bolt and turn it until it can be grabbed with pliers. Sometimes it takes surprisingly little torque to tap the bolt around. A little heat to the end of the shaft could help too, as this will increase clearances as the shaft will expand first. Not too much though, as you don't want to ruin temper of shaft or melt seal. Even a bit from a propane soldering torch can help. Another old and useful trick is, when the shaft is hot, hold a bit of beeswax against the stuck bolt or into the bore. It will sweat into the threads and make removal easier regardless of whether tapping with punch or easy out or whatever.
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1200A Secondary Cap Screw
Good Luck Coach!
I learned the beeswax trick from a retired Granite Construction heavy equipment mechanic. It works surprisingly well--great for frozen studs and such. Consider right-hand or left-hand drills, depending on which way the screw needs to come out. Often times with broken bolts, the drill will bind a bit as it starts to go through the bolt and will spin the bolt out. So you want to use a lh bit to extract rh screws and rh bits to extract lh screws. Of course if the bolt is bottomed out hard or loctited in it gets more difficult.
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1200A Secondary Cap Screw
I've been down that road a few times myself. Have you got an oxy/actelylene set? If the tap is broken below hole you drilled into original bolt, you might be able to put on your smallest tip and heat just the tap. Put the flame into one flute and let it out other. If you can get it red hot and let it cool down slowly, it'll lose its temper, and drilling will be much easier. Your initial hole should help keep drill centered. I'd go for a carbide, or the best bit you can find, bigger than before, and try drilling again. Have you ever used a Helicoil? They will let you drill out original hole oversize, then tap and screw new threads into bore. In the end, the broken bolt mostly just keeps clutch onto splined shaft. You could also drill bigger and tap for 10mm.
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1200A Secondary Cap Screw
The heat with slow cooling would more likely make tap softer to drill. I don't think Mapp with air and solder tip would do it. Maybe carbide pointed die grinder at first to give smooth start for drill bit. I've always had best luck with coolant/lubricant when drilling. I think if you can get tap out, your best bet would be to drill shaft up to size required for 10mm (or close US equivalent) tap for new threads and new larger bolt. I'll be impressed if you can save original threads at this point, but I'm pulling for you. If you have access to machine tools, could you make a sleeve that would guide a good end mill down middle of shaft? Just a thought. I've used slightly larger end mills and a higher speed hand drill in the field. Broken a few, but also solved a few problems too.
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1200A Secondary Cap Screw
That's great. It's always nice to hear success stories. I see you also have one of my favorite models of Vice Grips.
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